Kafanas

National restaurant is in Serbian widely recognized as Kafana. While dining in a Belgrade kafana, the typical thing to do is to discuss politics, or more accurately, to quarell. It seems like the Serbs tend to think better with their stomachs full. So, the rule that says you should quietly eat your meal doesn’t apply to Serbia. Some of the kafanas in Belgrade where you can try Serbian dishes mentioned on this site:

In Skadarlija, look for Tri Šešira, Dva Jelena, Velika Skadarlija, Zlatan Bokal, Ima Dana, Šešir moj

Domovina, address: Bulevar revolucije 98

Kalenic, address: Save Kovacevica 2

Stara Hercegovina, address: Carigradska 36

Prolece. address: Vuka Karadzica 11

Marš na Drinu, address: Cara Dušana 66

Mikan, address: Maršala Birjuzova 14

Srpska kafana, address: Svetogorska 25

Orac, address: Makenzijeva 81

Grcka Kraljica, address: Knez Mihaila 51

Dva bela goluba, address: 29. novembra 3 “?” (*The Question Mark*, Serbian: Znak pitanja)
One of the oldest Serbian restaurants in Belgrade, good food, nice atmosphere, but probably the worst toilet in the city as well. Recently saved from being turned into a supermarket, and is now a culture monument (but you can still eat good food there).
Address: Kralja Petra I br. 6
Working hours: 07-24h, sundays 10- 18h.
Tel: +381 11 635-421

Visit also “Chobanov odmor” for some unusual fast food, address: Zarka Zrenjanina 34, or at 27. Marta 36

Velika Skadarlija
Traditional Serbian cuisine
Address: Cetinjska 17
Working hours: 09-01h
Tel: +381 11 32-34-983

Tri šešira
Traditional Serbian cuisine with live music
Address: Skadarska 29
Working hours: 11 – 01h
Tel: +381 11 324-7501

Zlatni bokal
Traditional Serbian cuisine with live music
Address: Skadarska 26
Working hours: 11- 01h
Tel: +381 11 323-4834


Kafana is a term that nowdays can describe a wide variety of restaurants, from the shabbiest places to the hi-end posh ones. But the thing they will always have in common is that they serve national dishes and all its variations. Here's a map where I tried to mark all the places you can try some national dishes. It will be updated constantly with more places, as well as with recommended dishes and prices of the restaurants:


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Kafana Songs

It is very common to listen to some live folk music while eating in a kafana. And I'm not talking about turbo folk here, but some real traditional folk music.
To get a glimpse of a typical kafana scene, here are two videos made in kafanas, for kafanas.


Toma Zdravkovic, one of the legendary Serbian folk singers:




Silvana Armenulic:

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